“中华纺织服饰非遗的历史与创新（第一回：汉族）”展在沪举行。　东华大学 供图

　　中新网上海10月13日电 (记者许婧)“蓝染时尚”“玲珑五色”“寸锦寸金”……98件非遗作品，静态展览、视频展览及学术论坛，首次聚焦汉族纺织服饰非遗的历史与创新主题，以汉族纺织服饰非遗的纺、织、染、绣等传统工艺为内容，并结合当代设计，呈现中国优秀的传统技艺、纺织服饰文化和当代时尚传承创新。

　　12日，值东华大学建校70周年之际，“中华纺织服饰非遗的历史与创新(第一回：汉族)”展览系列活动在东华大学上海纺织服饰博物馆正式拉开帷幕，对纺织服饰非遗进行再梳理，对当代“国风”进行再总结。

　　本次展览静态展出的98件非遗作品，围绕“织、染、绣、衣”四大主题，遴选云锦、蜀锦、宋锦、缂丝、漳绒、像锦、夏布、蜡染、扎染、苏绣、粤绣、湘绣，融合旗袍、汉服、国潮服饰，结合唐代服饰复原，以汉族纺织服饰文化传承为主线，借历史实物比照当代创作，彰显汉族纺织服饰非遗的历史之源和当代创造性转换、创新性发展的时尚之美。

　　展品的历史实物部分，既有“东华收藏”中的相关藏品，更有着名收藏家包铭新教授、李超德教授、蔡名强、陈闻的鼎力支持，充分展示了汉族纺织服饰非遗的历史辉煌。

　　而在当代创新部分，既有来自国家级非遗保护单位的成果、着名企业和艺术家的作品，也有诸多时尚设计新锐的创作，集中体现了当代服饰时尚领域汉族纺织服饰非遗继承和创新的最新成就，显现出时尚文化自立的实践探索，为纺织服饰非遗的保护利用和当代时尚建设构建了标杆和参照。

　　被称为“寸锦寸金”的南京云锦在展览中格外夺目。此次展出的云锦精品大红妆花缎五福捧寿团纹大襟女袍为19世纪后期制作，宽身直袖、立领大襟、圆下摆，两侧开衩。衣身面料为大红缎地，其上纹样用妆花手法织出，胸前、后背和两肩处有四个五福捧寿团纹，下摆处有立水江崖，上织五彩花鸟、蝴蝶纹，精美绝伦。

　　展出的南京云锦。　东华大学 供图

　　蓝染时尚系列服饰，展品面料采用原创风格丝毛、丝麻织造、真丝乔其，使用扎染吊染、段染、伞卷综合应用工艺制作完成，体现自然之美。

　　苏绣服装“玲珑五色”，裙身图案来源于国画中的经典祥云纹样，以苏绣戗针勾勒祥云轮廓，以滚针充实祥云形体，以套针绣出渐变色彩，以直乱针和斜乱针表现云雾的浓淡和光影。底部印制同色祥云图案，增强纹样层次感。

　　金顶奖设计师陈闻的现代国潮新风尚系列将充满东方传统风格的精美的提花面料、贡缎面料和云纹图案、祥龙图案、荷花图案、水墨图案等设计元素运用到国风汉服、旗袍等传统服饰中，面料色泽亮丽款式充满飘逸感，搭配充满透视感的欧根纱、彩色网等，局部采用吊带、镂空等元素，从艺术和文化美学的角度，重组传统文化和现代时尚，完美演绎充满现代感的国潮风尚。

　　展览策划人、上海纺织服饰博物馆馆长卞向阳教授认为，随着社会主义新时代文化建设的加速推进，中华优秀服饰文化的当代传承进入了一个新阶段，以汉服、旗袍、国潮为代表的“国风”服饰已经成为社会的新风尚。“从学术角度对于纺织服饰非遗的再梳理和当代“国风”的再总结，已经成为社会文化建设、时尚之都建设和时尚消费品产业建设的迫切需要，也是高校和博物馆的责任所在。有鉴于此，上海纺织服饰博物馆将逐年推出“中华纺织服饰非遗的历史和创新”系列活动。”

　　当前，弘扬传统文化，振兴传统工艺，已成为国家“中华优秀传统文化传承发展工程”及“非物质文化遗产保护利用”的一项重要任务。由东华大学联合中国服装协会、中国服装设计师协会共同主办，上海纺织服饰博物馆精心策划的“中华纺织服饰非遗的历史与创新(第一回：汉族)”展览，或将成为推进中国纺织服饰行业和上海时尚消费品产业快速提升、上海时尚之都建设加速发展的又一有力举措。(完)

"History and innovation of intangible cultural heritage of Chinese textile and clothing (the first time: Han nationality)" exhibition was held in Shanghai. Shanghai, October 13 (reporter Xu Jing) "blue dyeing fashion", "exquisite five colors", "inch brocade and inch gold"... 98 intangible cultural heritage works, static exhibitions, video exhibitions and academic forums, focus on the history and innovation theme of the intangible cultural heritage of Han textile and clothing for the first time, take the traditional processes of spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery of the intangible cultural heritage of Han textile and clothing as the content, and combine contemporary design to present China's excellent traditional skills Textile clothing culture and contemporary fashion inheritance and innovation. On the 12th, on the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the founding of Donghua University, the exhibition series of "history and innovation of intangible cultural heritage of Chinese textile and clothing (the first time: Han nationality)" officially opened in Shanghai textile and clothing Museum of Donghua University, re combing the intangible cultural heritage of textile and clothing and re summarizing the contemporary "national style". The 98 pieces of intangible cultural heritage works statically displayed in this exhibition are selected from cloud brocade, Shu brocade, song brocade, Kesi, Zhangrong, elephant brocade, summer cloth, batik, tie dye, Suzhou embroidery, Guangdong embroidery and Xiang embroidery, combined with cheongsam, Han clothing and Guochao clothing, combined with the restoration of clothing in the Tang Dynasty, taking the inheritance of Han textile clothing culture as the main line and comparing contemporary creation with historical objects, Highlight the historical source of the intangible cultural heritage of Han textile clothing and the fashion beauty of contemporary creative transformation and innovative development. The historical and physical part of the exhibits, including the relevant collections in the "Donghua collection", and the full support of famous collectors Professor Bao Mingxin, Professor Li Chaode, Cai Mingqiang and Chen Wen, fully demonstrates the historical brilliance of the intangible cultural heritage of textile and clothing of the Han nationality. In the contemporary innovation part, there are not only the achievements from national intangible cultural heritage protection units, the works of famous enterprises and artists, but also many cutting-edge creations of fashion design, which intensively reflect the latest achievements of the inheritance and innovation of Han textile and clothing intangible cultural heritage in the field of contemporary clothing fashion, show the practical exploration of fashion culture independence, and build a benchmark and reference for the protection and utilization of textile and clothing intangible cultural heritage and the construction of contemporary fashion. Nanjing brocade, known as "inch brocade and inch gold", is particularly eye-catching in the exhibition. The cloud brocade boutique large red make-up damask five blessings holding longevity Group pattern large placket women's robe on display was made in the late 19th century, with wide straight sleeves, stand collar, large placket, round hem and slit on both sides. The fabric of the garment body is big red satin ground. The pattern on it is woven by makeup flower technique. There are four five blessing holding longevity group patterns on the chest, back and two shoulders, and lishuijiang cliff on the hem. The colorful flowers, birds and butterflies are woven on it. It is exquisite. Nanjing brocade on display. The blue dyeing fashion series clothes provided by Donghua University are made of original style silk wool, silk linen weaving and real silk Qiaoqi, which are made by the comprehensive application process of tie dyeing, hanging dyeing, segment dyeing and umbrella roll, reflecting the beauty of nature. Suzhou embroidery clothing is "exquisite five colors". The skirt pattern comes from the classic auspicious cloud pattern in traditional Chinese painting. The outline of auspicious cloud is outlined with Suzhou embroidery berm needle, the shape of auspicious cloud is enriched with rolling needle, the gradual color is embroidered with set needle, and the density and light shadow of cloud are expressed with straight random needle and oblique random needle. The bottom is printed with the same color auspicious cloud pattern to enhance the sense of hierarchy of the pattern. Chen Wen, the designer of Jinding prize, has applied the exquisite jacquard fabric, satin fabric, moire pattern, auspicious dragon pattern, lotus pattern, ink pattern and other design elements full of Oriental traditional style to the traditional clothes such as national style Hanfu and cheongsam. The fabric has bright color, the style is full of elegant feeling, matched with European root yarn and color net full of perspective, and some elements such as suspenders and hollows are used, From the perspective of art and cultural aesthetics, reorganize traditional culture and modern fashion, and perfectly interpret the national trend full of modernity. Professor Bian Xiangyang, the exhibition planner and curator of Shanghai textile and clothing Museum, believes that with the acceleration of cultural construction in the new socialist era, the contemporary inheritance of Chinese excellent clothing culture has entered a new stage. The "national style" clothing represented by Hanfu, cheongsam and Guochao has become a new trend in society. "From an academic point of view, re combing the intangible cultural heritage of textile and clothing and re summarizing the contemporary" national style "have become an urgent need for the construction of social culture, the construction of fashion capital and the construction of fashion consumer goods industry. It is also the responsibility of colleges and museums. In view of this, Shanghai textile and clothing museum will launch a series of activities of "history and innovation of intangible cultural heritage of Chinese textile and clothing" year by year. " At present, carrying forward traditional culture and Revitalizing Traditional Crafts has become an important task of the national "inheritance and development project of Chinese excellent traditional culture" and "protection and utilization of intangible cultural heritage". Jointly sponsored by Donghua University, China Fashion Association and China Fashion Designers Association, and carefully planned by Shanghai textile and clothing Museum, the exhibition "history and innovation of intangible cultural heritage of Chinese textile and clothing (the first time: Han nationality)" may become another powerful measure to promote the rapid improvement of China's textile and clothing industry and Shanghai fashion consumer goods industry, and accelerate the construction and development of Shanghai fashion capital. (end)